We decided to not drive much today and instead explore Old Quebec, a city of history and charm. A short drive from our hotel put us at the foot of the massive cliffs that protected the city for so many years. The city is set on a plateau overlooking the confluence of the St. Charles and St. Lawrence rivers. For decades it has been the controlling spot for commerce and trade with the Atlantic and the Great Lakes regions. Because of its strategic location, it has been fought over more than once.
The French settled the area and fortified it and for about 150 years they controlled the location and contested dominance of the region with Great Britain. Finally in 1759, the British won control and have remained in control since. In about 1860, The Canadian Confederation was formed making the country essentially independent. Still, they have made themselves subject to the British Monarchy and keep many traditions. Quebec is home to the only French speaking regiment in Canada, one that has covered itself with glory in many campaigns. The Citadel, on the south of the city is overlooking the Plains of Abraham, site of the most famous battles for the city.
It was built in about 1860 as a defense against the USA but was never attacked, obviously. But it is still functioning and is the headquarters of the 22nd Regiment and all their orders and actions are done in French, including the changing of the guard, which we witnessed today. The goat is the regimental mascot, and declared the "royal goat" because the original mascot, Bessie, was given to the regiment by the Queen. The current goat is the 11th Bessie and the goat was picked because of its fierce attitude of defending its family. The regimental motto is translated " I remember" and refers to Country, family and comrades.
The martial spectacle, with its drums, band and stylized maneuvers was fun to watch. They change the guard, all dressed in traditional uniforms, only once a day and only until the end of August and then close down until the spring. But at all other times, they are a real military unit, on active duty and have been called to fight in World Wars I and II, Korea, Iraq and Afghanistan.
We then spent hours walking the city, with its narrow streets, hills, cobblestones, shops and cafes. We had a splendid lunch at the Creperie, saw the iconic Chateau Fontenac, watched a diorama of the battles of Quebec and visited ornate and beautiful churches. By the time we got home, we were tired but found Quebec to be a lovely visit.
We had a snack of cheesecake at a sidewalk cafe on the square.
Many of the churches date back to the French days and are Catholic or have a strong Catholic/Anglican flavor. Stain glass windows abound and gilded alter pieces and relics are present. I found them beautiful and in a couple of them, they had background music of Gregorian chants and other acapella singing. In addition, street side performers made lovely music on guitar, harps, etc. They added a unique flavor to the city.
We went up and down a lot of steps to get about on the heights where Quebec is situated. We indeed had a good days walk and it was tiring but rewarding. The city is like being in Europe without having to endure the long overseas flight. People were so friendly and warm and most could speak English, though the preferred speech is French. The commanding view is spectacular and one can easily see the strategic planning that went into the city. I enjoyed it very much. I also found the history fascinating and was reminded of all the things I learned in the past about this historic location.
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